noviembre 29

It is now December, and really cold, well at least by orange county standards. And I have decided to write quite certainly because I have not written in almost a month I believe. November a month of excitement and thanksgiving has passed. Fires devastated many L.A. and Orange County families and may God bless those who have been affected by these wild fires. But the show must go on. I strolled down to Salt Creek on this beautiful day with my parents to surf before a family post-Thanksgiving get together. Showed up and the tide was very low and on the inside there was some little dredging barrels for some fun. Everyone seemingly was having fun; but of course there is one aggro bro who has to be all angry. He quote on quote said, "There's too many donkeys out here and not enough waves to go around." He continues to paddle to and fro while cussing uncontrollably and trying fervently to try and catch every wave possible at everyone's expense. He was a pretty good surfer but that did not give him the right to be a complete asshole. I, myself, sometimes get caught up being angry while surfing because I'm not surfing well or not getting a lot of good waves. I know its hard to believe everybody.But I always go back and think about what made me start surfing. It was FUN, and there you have it people. When you get angry,"aggro", and pissed because your not having your best day in the ocean; remember what brought you to delve into the ocean's greatness. It was the beauty of the stoke that the ocean's waves gave you and the natural high. Bring back that excitement, become young again, go back to the basics. Go have FUN.